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Hail damage to a roof is often invisible from the ground. Shingles can look intact while the mat underneath is bruised, granules are knocked loose, and the material's ability to shed water for the next 10–15 years is already compromised. Indiana sits squarely in the Midwest hail corridor, and storm systems that roll through in late summer and early fall routinely leave hail-bruised roofs that homeowners don't notice until a leak shows up months later. The first 72 hours after a hailstorm are when the evidence is freshest and easiest to document — this guide walks through exactly what to do with that window.

1

Hours 0–2: Confirm It Was Actually Hail, and Check for Immediate Hazards

Before you inspect anything, walk your property (not your roof) and check for downed limbs, damaged power lines, or standing water near the foundation. If you see a power line down anywhere near the house, stay back and call your utility company — don't attempt to move it yourself.

  • Look at soft surfaces first. Dents in aluminum gutters, downspouts, window screens, and AC unit fins are a reliable, easy-to-see sign that hail large enough to matter actually hit the property. If those show dents, the roof almost certainly took the same hit.
  • Check the National Weather Service storm reports for your area and date. A confirmed hail report for your county is useful evidence later — screenshot it now, since older reports can be harder to find.
  • Do not climb onto the roof yourself. Wet or granule-loosened shingles are slippery, and hail-bruised roofing can be more fragile underfoot than it looks. Ground-level and window inspection is enough for this stage.
2

Hours 2–6: Document Everything You Can See From the Ground

This is the single most valuable thing you can do in the first 72 hours. Photos taken within a day or two of the storm are more convincing to an insurer than photos taken a week later, after rain, wind, and foot traffic have altered the scene.

  • Wide shots of every roof plane from each side of the house, taken from the ground or a second-story window — not from a ladder against the roofline.
  • Close-ups of gutters and downspouts showing dents, which are often the clearest visible proof of hail size and impact force.
  • Siding, window screens, and any exterior AC or HVAC equipment, all of which take hail damage alongside the roof and are frequently overlooked.
  • Any visible shingle damage — missing tabs, exposed fiberglass mat, or granules collecting in the gutters or at downspout outlets.
Timestamp matters. Make sure your phone's location and date/time settings are on before you start. A dated, geotagged photo set is harder to dispute than an undated one.
3

Hours 6–24: Check the Attic and Interior for Water Intrusion

Hail impact can crack or displace roofing material enough to let water in even when nothing is visibly missing from the outside. Go into your attic with a flashlight and look for:

  • Daylight showing through the roof deck at any point, especially near vents, chimneys, or skylights.
  • Wet or discolored insulation, water staining on the underside of the roof deck, or a musty smell.
  • Fresh water spots on ceilings or upper-floor walls inside the living space, which often show up hours or even a day or two after the storm as water works its way through.

If you find active water intrusion, photograph it before you do anything else, then move to temporary protective steps.

4

Hours 12–48: Make Only Temporary, Documented Repairs

If water is actively entering the home, it's reasonable — and often required by your policy — to take steps to stop further damage. Keep every repair strictly temporary and keep the receipts.

  • Tarp only what's actively leaking, and photograph the area both before and after the tarp goes on.
  • Save receipts for any tarps, sealant, or emergency service calls — these are typically reimbursable as part of a claim.
  • Do not schedule or authorize any permanent roof repair or replacement yet. Permanent work done before an adjuster sees the damage can make it harder to substantiate the full scope of what hail actually did.

Not Sure If the Damage Is Worth a Claim?

Once you've documented what you're seeing, a licensed local contractor can give you a written estimate to compare against your deductible — before you decide whether to call your insurer at all.

See How Otter Quotes Works
5

Hours 24–72: Review Your Policy, Then Call Your Insurer

Before you pick up the phone, spend 15 minutes with your policy. Know your deductible — some Indiana carriers apply a separate, higher wind/hail deductible that only kicks in for storm events like this one — and know whether your roof coverage is Actual Cash Value (depreciated) or Replacement Cost Value (full replacement cost, often paid in two installments).

  • Have your policy number, the storm date, and your photo documentation ready before you call.
  • Describe only what you observed — "dented gutters and visible shingle damage on the north side" — rather than speculating about cause or severity. What you say when you report the claim can shape how it's handled.
  • Write down your claim number and the adjuster's contact information as soon as you have them.
  • Ask whether your contractor can be present for the adjuster's inspection — in most states, that's your right, not a special favor.

Most Indiana homeowners policies require reporting "within a reasonable time," which in practice means don't sit on it — but you have time to document properly first. Filing a claim doesn't obligate you to move forward with repairs through any particular contractor, and it doesn't obligate your insurer to any specific outcome; it simply starts the review of what's covered under your policy.

6

After 72 Hours: Line Up Contractor Bids Before the Adjuster Arrives

Adjusters are often scheduled several days to a week or more out, especially after a widespread hail event when call volumes spike across the region. Use that lead time to get at least one, ideally more, written estimates from licensed local contractors. A contractor bid gives you a real-world number to compare against the adjuster's estimate, and a contractor who's seen hail-damaged roofs before can help you spot damage that's easy to miss from the ground.

Be selective about who you invite onto the roof. After a widespread hail event, out-of-town crews frequently canvass neighborhoods offering to "handle the insurance" for homeowners. Stick with contractors who are licensed, carry current liability insurance, and have a verifiable local presence — ask for proof before anyone climbs a ladder.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if hail actually hit my roof, not just my yard?

Check soft, easy-to-read surfaces first: aluminum gutters, downspouts, window screens, and exposed AC fins. Dents in those materials are a strong indicator that hail large enough to matter reached the property, and roofing material in the same storm path very likely took a comparable hit, even if it isn't obviously visible from the ground.

Is it safe to inspect my own roof after a hailstorm?

Ground-level and attic inspection is generally safe and is enough to document damage in the first 72 hours. Getting on the roof itself is riskier than usual right after a hail event — wet or granule-loosened shingles are more slippery, and hail-bruised material can be more fragile underfoot. If you want a close-up roof-surface inspection, a licensed contractor with the right equipment can do that safely.

How long do I have to report hail damage to my insurance company?

Most homeowners policies require reporting "within a reasonable time" after the event, which varies by carrier and by state and can be as short as a few weeks in some policies. Don't wait to document the damage, but you generally have a short window to gather your photos and review your policy before you need to call. If you're not sure of your specific deadline, check your policy or call your agent to ask.

Should I get a contractor estimate before or after I file the claim?

Either order can work, but getting at least one written estimate early — even before you call your insurer — gives you a real number to weigh against your deductible and, later, against whatever the adjuster's estimate comes back at. It doesn't commit you to hiring that contractor or to filing at all.

What's the difference between hail damage and wind damage on a roof?

They often occur in the same storm but leave different signatures, and insurers evaluate them differently. See our companion guide on hail vs. wind roof damage for what each one typically looks like and how that distinction can affect a claim.

How does Otter Quotes fit into this process?

Otter Quotes is not a public adjuster and does not file, interpret, or negotiate insurance claims on your behalf. Once you've documented the damage and are ready to compare repair options, Otter Quotes connects you with local contractors who submit competing bids so you can see real pricing and credentials side by side — at no cost to you as a homeowner.

Already past the first 72 hours and ready to file? See our full guide on how to file a property damage insurance claim.

Ready to Compare Contractor Bids?

Once you've documented the damage and filed your claim, Otter Quotes connects you with local contractors who submit competing bids — so you can compare pricing and credentials before you decide, at no cost to you.

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